Meeting the Students

Today was the last day of official orientation. Not that this orientation has been very official, but we’ve finished everything we set out to do. We started early in the week by systematically going over each part of the Kucetekela Foundation, specifically the programs I’ll be responsible for. This will include an active role in the selection process, which has already begun, managing the mentoring and work experience programs and supporting our programs officer in academic monitoring and tutoring of the students. Each day contained a healthy mix of both going over my massive binder over coffee and practical experience around town. For example, one day we discussed the mentoring process, wherein a local community leader is paired with a KF student to provide advice and support throughout their academic experience, and afterwards we interviewed a new mentor and took them to meet their student.

Between training sessions we’ve been pretty busy. With Jamie’s guidance I've been improving my driving skills while exploring the city bit by bit. We’ve enjoyed BBQs, or brais as they’re called here, as well as various other treats including sugar cane and nshima, a millet-based side dish used to scoop up the meats, vegetables or sauces on the plate. We’ve walked around a compound, where much of the city's low income housing is located and where most KF students are drawn from, as well as one of the main markets in the city. For those of you who know my habits, you won’t be surprised to hear I’ve already purchased a knock-off Zambian soccer jersey.

The past two days have been the culmination of orientation: finally meeting the students who are sponsored by the Kucetekela Foundation. After learning about all the ways I would be supporting and interacting with them it was great to actually get to meet them. They are the core of this organization, they’re the reason we’re here, and I hope that knowledge will guide me in all my efforts this year. The students are spread across grades 8 through 12 at three different private schools; Chalo Trust, Leopard’s Hill and Ibex Hill. There are 36 students in total, the majority attending the latter two schools. I was really stuck by two things as I met them: First, they’re not children at all, but rather young adults with confidence, charisma and struggles shared by their peers all over the world. Second, I was amazed at their willingness to accept me into their lives. Jamie has become very close with all of them and they are understandably disappointed he is leaving, yet after only a few minutes together, they were already warm and welcoming. I truly can’t wait to get to know each of them over the next year; they are all incredible kids who have achieved so much already despite many challenges. Each one has a unique personality, outlook and sense of humor, but they all seem to share a sense of motivation and dedication uncommon among their age group. I’m simultaneously excited and pretty nervous that, starting next week, I’m going to be highly involved in their lives- their successes and their struggles. Here’s hoping for more of the former than the latter.

(Jamie and I with the Leopard's Hill KF students)

Lusaka at Last

Where to start?

Ok, for starters, I’m here. After many months of waiting and preparation the moment has arrived. It’s probably too early to be making any observations, but I wanted to say I’d arrived safely and quickly share a few of my first impressions.

Kind, open, welcoming, friendly- all these adjectives could be used to describe any number of the people I’ve been meeting here since my arrival on Thursday night. Of course there is Jamie, the outgoing fellow at KF, who I will be working closely with over his last days here to help transition into the position. He has been incredibly helpful already in orienting me to life here in Lusaka. He’s also introduced me to dozens of people from all over the world, although the Boston area is well represented, who have been unbelievably welcoming, opening their homes, lives and frisbee games to me without question or hesitation. And of course there are the Zambians I’ve met so far, including coworkers, school administrators, KF scholars and other young adults who have already surpassed their reputation for warmth and kindness. I can tell it will be a true pleasure living here among all of these people

Zambia itself seems to have a lot of depth to it. Domestically there seems to be much to explore, with many amazing parks, game reserves and natural wonders. Its central location gives it access to many other countries in the region including Malawi, Tanzania, Botswana and Zimbabwe. Locally, Lusaka seems to be, from the areas I’ve seen at least, a pretty manageable city despite the fact that it is vastly overpopulated. Granted, I haven’t made it to the bustling city center yet, but all the immediate surrounding area is pretty residential, with many decent roads and traffic that is infinitely less chaotic than Dakar. I’ve been trying my hand at driving on the “wrong” side over the past few days and I think I’m finally getting the hang of it, although I have a tendency to drift to the side of the road and give my passenger a good scare. The car I’ll be using has a lot of character; it’s an older Toyota SUV that’s maroon-ish/ purple with no A/C, tires that squeal around even the gentlest of turns, and an engine that runs for a good twenty seconds even after the keys are out of the ignition. I am definitely looking forward to piloting this well-seasoned vehicle through all sorts of terrain this year.

Tomorrow we’ll really start to get into more of the details of the position’s responsibilities. I’ve been given a binder of information so large it wouldn’t qualify as carry-on luggage on an airplane. I’m just getting my feet wet here but so far things are looking pretty good. I hope that’s a sign of things to come.

(My sweet Toyota Surf)

Au Revoir, Dakar

In Senegal, you can walk by a cow tied to a tree one night, and not twelve hours later you can be sitting against that same tree, sharing that cow with dozens of other people celebrating a baptism.

Here, a breakfast of chocolate spread on a baguette with a side of instant coffee and powdered milk is what gets you out of bed in the morning.

In Senegal, you can be tired and ready to leave the club at 3am, but be forced to stay and dance until 5 so that your father will have already woken up for morning prayers by the time you get home and will be able to let you in the house.

Here, you can walk a mile just to wait for some delicious street donuts, only to become so engrossed in conversation you miss the first round and have to wait another ten minutes.

These ten days have been both eventful and relaxing. In addition to the baptism and dancing mbalax at a night club, we saw an outdoor hip hop concert, went to the Senegal v. Tunisia youth soccer match and visited the homes of relatives and friends, which can be exhausting at times- as I write this our three year old neighbor is attempting to strangle me. At home, much to the amusement of my sisters, I’ve helped cook such Senegalese classics as fataya (dumplings) and cheebu jen (fish and rice) (check out the pictures to the right, more to come soon). On my own, I’ve been visiting old haunts, a sort of nostalgic pilgrimage; Suffolk campus, the Mermoz beach to see the sunset, the Ouakam mosque, and the markets of course where I picked up some treats for the bin-bin enthusiasts at home.

Tomorrow morning I leave for Lusaka. Out with the somewhat familiar, bring on the completely unknown. I’m happy to be overlapping with the current fellow, Jamie. Hopefully I’ll absorb at least part of his accumulated wisdom. Looking forward to having new experiences and photos to share soon.

(Bird's eye view of the baptism)

Le Retour

“Allahu-Ackbar” rings over the loudspeaker through the muggy stagnant air. A sound that had become so blended into daily life is once again new and foreign. The same goes for many of the other sounds, sights and smells all around me. Riding in the taxi from the airport in the early dawn hours with the ocean breeze sweeping across the highway and in through the window, I was struck by how much I had forgotten about Senegal. My memory had become nothing more than an abridged version of this place, a bullet point summary leaving out so much.

Well, the holes are starting to be filled in. Sipping strong sugary tea by candlelight. Getting juice all over myself while devouring a perfectly ripe mango. Watching the sun set as the ocean runs its fingers over rocks so wet they’re black, so smooth they shine like opals. Hopping a car rapide at dusk as the temperature finally starts to drop and the wind rushes through its open windows.  Hearing the frantic drumming of mbalax music around every corner and in every boutique. So many things have stayed constant over the past two years, but there are many changes as well. New construction has taken over many of the open areas in Ouakam. There are newly paved roads, widened to accommodate the increase in cars. Many of the hotels and statues perpetually under construction are finally finished. Power outages have become more frequent; with the electricity now out for the majority of each day. There’s a new wall in front of my family’s home as well as a boutique in their previously empty garage. And all the babies I knew back then are now walking forces of destruction. 

But the fundamentals of Senegal, as I remember it, remain. Crazy traffic with taxis that, against all laws of physics, continue to function. Brightly painted car rapides packed with people swerving into oncoming traffic to pass wood chariots pulled by horses. Heat and sand, trash and exhaust, but also community and family, religion and respect. It feels good to be home, to see the family I haven’t seen in years, to be reassured all this really happened, to know it goes on without me but yet I am still a part of it. 

(My host mother after prayers)

Departure

I was recently told a piece of advice that I imagine will prove pertinent throughout the coming year. To paraphrase, “if you find yourself disillusioned, remember that it was you who created the illusion in the first place.” Sitting here at Dulles International Airport in DC awaiting my flight to Dakar, I think it would be valuable to lay out some of the things I am expecting or anticipating from this experience. I do this mostly for my own benefit, as an opportunity for self-analysis further down the road. In the past, re-reading things I had written prior to significant life changes could be at times cringe-worthy, but also helpful in determining exactly how I had grown and what I had learned during those experiences. If I do find myself disillusioned at a future date, this will be a good reference point to figure out what illusions I may have carried in with me. 

The centerpiece of this experience will be my work at KF. Thanks to conscientious efforts by the founders of the organization I have a pretty clear idea of many of the projects I will be working on. I expect the largest of these to be creating a plan for the gap year experienced by all Zambian students who finish secondary school. The goal will be to find work experience and other activities for the students to help launch them into the next phase of their academic or professional careers. I also expect to spend a good deal of time structuring an alumni network for KF scholars. As the first class of scholars graduates this year, the organization must have a system in place to connect them both to each other and back to KF. Their experience and insight will be invaluable for future generations of scholars. Outside of these projects I imagine I will be spending time furthering the mentorship program already in place, participating in the application process, and tutoring students when they need help in school. I do hope to spend a good deal of time with the students, I’ve heard so much about their great personalities and dedication. I expect that becoming close with them will also provide a strong, tangible motivation for my work. This work experience will vary greatly from any I’ve had in the past. With a good deal responsibility and freedom to create one’s own schedule I definitely hope to hit the ground running and get into a good routine right away. 

Picturing my life outside of work is more difficult. As of now, I know next to nothing about Lusaka, not even where I’ll be living, so it’s hard to imagine what daily living will entail. But there are some things I can’t expect to know or even predict. As long as my mind is open I think many other things will fall into place. I just hope that as I move forward I will encounter enough good people to help fill the void left by the co-workers, family and friends in Boston. I recently asked a friend who’s moving to Texas to teach what her expectations were, and she answered “frankly, I have none.” While this was a good exercise and could prove informative down the road, I think I’ll follow her lead and keep myself open to all possibilities.