Last Day- 2014

This time last year I was home in Boston, celebrating the end of 2013 with friends, about to get snowed in for an extra week in the US thanks to the polar vortex. This year Emily and I are closing out 2014 in Cape Town (technically in Knysna) enjoying long hot days and the ocean. These two awesome trips bookend a very full, very fast year. Last half year in Zambia, re-visiting Namibia, deciding on a plan for the next two years, a wonderful trip up the west coast of the US, and, finally, moving to Kenya. I feel very lucky to have shared it all with family and friends new, old and very old. Hoping for more of the same in 2015.

I've included a few photos of our trip around South Africa below, more to come later. 

 (Dusk view from Chapman's Peak drive)

(Windy sunset on Lion's Head, Table Mountain behind draped in clouds)

(Colorful changing houses on Muizenburg Beach on boxing day)

(Devil's Peak, Table Mountain and Lion's Head)

(Sharing a glass of wine at a Stellenbosch Vineyard)

West Coast Whirlwind

Next time I have to move from somewhere, I’m definitely going to plan it to coincide with a trip. Nothing could've taken the sting out of leaving Zambia quite like 3 ambitious weeks jam-packed with travel, beauty and fantastic food. It’s much easier to pack your bags when you’re planning to do something fun with them.

In mid-August Emily and I boarded our flights from Lusaka, leaving KK International for the last time (as residents), and headed directly for San Francisco. From the minute we left the airport we shifted into high gear. We were there for Emily’s sister’s wedding, taking place just a few days later in Big Sur just south of the city. There was still preparing and arranging to do, but Tammy somehow found time to take us on a delicious oysters and wine tasting day trip. 

(Tomales Bay oysters)

The following day, the whole family convened to wrap up the loose ends, while I snuck off to hang out with my high school friend Brady in Berkeley. He’s blowing glass there and making some incredible pieces, and it was a huge treat to see his studio and the community he’s been living in for the past few years. Berkeley is a cool town, easy access to the city but with a residential feel and hills to hike right in the backyard. I rejoined the family the next day, meeting Emily’s parents for the first time in an apartment crammed with all types of flowers for the wedding décor. That night we had a big meal together then were on our way to Big Sur.

On the way down in the morning we stopped off in Monterey (for a Costco hotdog) and detoured along the beautiful 17-mile drive by the Pebble Beach golf course. There I got my first sight of California coast-line; the stark, saturated blue turquoise of the water bordered in bright white foam. In many places it made a strange, surreal sight, very different than east coast shores.

We arrived in Big Sur and checked into our place right along Highway 1, tucked into the towering green trees. That evening was the rehearsal dinner, held at Big Sur Bakery with courses of delicious home-style cooking, and a mountain of cookies for dessert.

The following day was the wedding. It was held at a really beautiful location: a small old library in a clearing ringed by tall redwoods. We got there early to help set up, and the decorations turned out fantastic. The wedding itself was a ton of fun. It was catered by a bbq food truck, had lots of good music and dancing, and sadly was over in a flash. This was the first wedding I’d been to for someone my age, and it really set the bar high.

(Centerpieces)

(An academic theme: riding to the library on a schoolbus)

(Dessert spread and lights)

After the wedding, Emily, her parents and I spent a fun few days exploring the parks within Big Sur and camping out in a small wood cabin. Endless beautiful coastline, waterfalls, even whales! Hard not to fall for this part of the country.

(Sunset at Pfieffer Beach)

(Surreal McWay Falls)

Back in San Francisco, after our days in the woods, Tammy took us around a city I’d only seen as a small child. We walked all over, from the stadium to the wharf to the bridge, hopping trolley cars and hitting up food and dessert places along the way. In a lot of ways it seems like a fake city, at least the parts I saw. So much man-made and natural beauty, and tons of happenings around every corner; I can easily see why it’s attracted so many friends like some big shiny beacon.  The highlight of our day and a half must’ve been the unbelievable Thai food we had at Kin Khao on our last night.

(Afternoon treat at Ghiradelli Square)

I would’ve been happy to end the trip there, our time in California was packed with good stuff, but this was just the halfway point. Back at the airport we caught our flight to Seattle for what was my first look at this much-loved northwesterly city. Our first stop, though, was a cabin belonging to the uncle of Jeff, a friend of ours from Zambia. He had kindly offered it to us and Emily’s friend from home for a weekend. It was less of the “cabin” we were picturing, having beautiful, homey furnishings instead of dank wooden rooms. Situated right on Puget Sound, it was the perfect place to relax and take in the natural beauty of Washington State. We did do a little work, digging up clams to eat for lunch and dinner one day.  It was a well-fed, well-relaxed weekend after our busy time in California.

(Walking in Washington woods)

(Fruits of our labor)

Over the ensuing week we trekked all over Seattle and I fell in love with a fantastic city. From Safeco Field to the Chilhuly Museum to the waterfront, there’s so much cool stuff to do. We lucked out with our timing and spent a day at the Bumbershoot music festival, where we saw The Head and the Heart, Kishi Bashi, Tom Robbins reading his books, and a live taping of the Moth podcast! Also, the Space Needle is just a downright awesome building. 

We ate so much good food, not even having time to fit it all in (so pressed for time that we had 2 lunches in one day!) After over a week of eating almost exclusively Chinese and Taiwanese food I’m still feeling the pangs of withdrawal. We had a great meal with my old college friend Breese and her new husband, which started with oysters, and ended in delectable lava cake, does it get any better? We also had a personal downtown tour from my friend Seth, co-study abroad mate in Senegal and current Seattle resident. Somehow I also found time in there to meet Deanne and Joseph, two of Emily's closest high school friends. I’m told I should take the fantastic weather we had with a grain of salt, but seriously, in what other American city can you see multiple mountain ranges and the ocean, right from downtown? I could continue raving but I think you get the point. Seattle is a great town (even the libraries are cool), and it was awesome to spend some quality time both in the city and in Emily’s hometown.

Goat Rodeo: NPR Tiny Desk Concert

This band makes me pre-nostalgic for the fall I'm about to leave (and just as it's getting going too). The song "Attaboy" is one of my all-time favorite songs, and Yo-Yo Ma's face of joy throughout the performance makes it even more fun to watch. 

Goodbyes, and What's Next

I’ve said goodbye to a lot people over my three years in Zambia, far more in both number and frequency than in any other period of my life. Anyone will tell you it’s the nature of life in that environment, especially if you stay more than a year in one place. Meeting cool new people is bittersweet in its natural time limits, and it’s easy to become cynical once you’ve said goodbye to a few cycles of friends.

It was surreal, then, when it was my turn to leave. While I never expected to stay in Zambia the rest of my life, the fact that I had tripled my time there after my initial one year stay had given my experience something of an endless feel. As these were my first real post-college jobs, and my first true home away from Boston, I also wasn’t accustomed to this process of leaving, which people do all the time all over the world. While it was on the horizon basically since 2014 arrived, it still crept up on me as I’m sure it does with most people. It felt like the time to departure was becoming exponentially shorter every time I checked.  But everything went on, just like it continues to do after you leave. Work, trips, errands, sports, I only started to feel the difference when normal meet-ups became “last time I’ll see you” affairs.

Everything wrapped up ok, which I’m thankful for. Had the chance to say goodbye to important people and places, including a lucky opportunity to see all the KF students in one place. I sold my car and my few immobile belongings, and packed my life into two suitcases with only a moderate amount of weight and space related stress. Emily and I had people over for one last party with friends, and I wrapped things up at FINCA. Then, it was time to look forward.

Forward is the grease that allows you to turn the wheels of leaving. And we were fortunate to have plenty to look forward to, both in the short and long term. Ahead of us, an action packed few weeks on the west coast of the US. Beyond that: a new adventure in a new location, the fruit of a long job search and much deliberation. Beginning mid-September, I started as an analyst on the Microfinance Partnerships Team at One Acre Fund. In October, I will move to Kenya, to a town near Kisumu in Western called Bungoma, where I will join Emily and be based for two years. 

I’m excited about this new opportunity, where I hope to expand my skills and experience within the field at a company known for its analytical, client-first approach to agricultural microfinance. It has built a strong reputation since being founded in 2006, providing small-scale farmers with access to timely, high-quality farming inputs on credit, with repayment schedules that meet their specific cash-constraints prior to the harvest season. I’m looking forward to the very new environment, in both where I’m working and where I’m living. It’s an exciting time and I’m sure I’ll have more stories to share about it soon. And I'm grateful for all the stories Zambia gave me over these last three years.

(Final weekend trip to Mulungushi Dam)

Zamultimate

My longest running tradition in Zambia has been playing ultimate frisbee. On one of my first days here, my predecessor at KF brought me to a game. I was terrible. Couldn't throw it straight, no hand-eye coordination, all I could do was run. Despite the shot to the ego, I wanted to keep going. And I did, twice a week for three years. What brought me back was the people. Even at my worst, I always felt welcome. They were always willing to teach me and I learned, eventually becoming a pusher of ultimate on all future new people. Zamultimate has been all sorts of things to me, from friend network to professional connector to plain old fun exercise. I will try to carry the spirit on to future games in other places.

(Last game)

KF Reunion

Sometimes timing just works out perfectly. In this case, I couldn't have planned a better way for me to say goodbye to the KF students and staff, the people who originally brought me to Zambia.

The new PiAf Fellow at KF, Olivia, invited me to the annual KF reunion which happened to fall on my second to last weekend in the country. Almost every current student and alumni was there, from the first class, now three years out of school, to the new Grade 8's. For the entire day I sat there with a grin plastered on my face, listening to the students run the show. The older classes presented on topics of their choice. Many talked about the opportunities and struggles they've been finding in their first years at university. Others discussed questions they've experienced about their religious beliefs while living in other cultures abroad. Japhet, pursuing a career in IT, showed us a very complex way to reset your password if you get completely locked out of your computer. One after another they exuded a well-spoken confidence, a passion for their topic, and a real love for the KF program and the students still in it. I couldn't have been happier to be there, to see how far many of them have come, and to imagine a very bright future for them and the ever-growing Kucetekela Foundation network.

 Abram presenting to a full house

 Current students and alumni

Japhet hacking computers

 Team challenge from ALA: tallest tower out of candy, spaghetti, string and tape

Soon there'll be too many to fit in one shot

 Goodbyes

Martinho, my mentee, who has just left to attend Earth University in Costa Rica

Olivia, the new Fellow, three generations on

Florence, my former boss and ED of KF

Zomba

A week after returning I was back in Malawi, but this time for work and the traveling was much easier. I flew Malawian Air, a resurrection of the recently bankrupt Air Malawi which, judging by its in-flight magazine, is determined to convince the world it will not go the same way as its predecessor. I flew to Blantyre then drove to Zomba, a town which was once the capital of Nyasaland. I found that hard to believe, as it's a sleepy place sitting at the foot of a towering plateau, which has lodges at the top drawing tourists for the views and horseback riding.

Sadly there wasn't time in my trip to get to the top, but it provided a nice backdrop to my stay. I was there to work with the FINCA Malawi team, to gather information on a pilot project we're working on in Zambia. The workdays were full of field visits to meet clients and working with the credit team at the pilot branch. Luckily, there's another Tufts grad, Renata, working for FINCA Malawi on this project, and she was enormously helpful in coordinating our visit and showing us around Zomba. Highlight of the trip was staying at a place called Casa Rossa, a pleasant place with a great view and a menu of incongruous but delicious Italian dishes. Zomba was a surprisingly connected place, as a former Princeton in Africa Fellow, Chris, is currently based there starting up One Acre Fund's program in the country. It was nice meeting up with him again, having last seen him a year ago on his trip to Zambia.

(Renata and I showing off a Tufts tote outside the branch)

(Morning view from Casa Rossa)

Lake Adventures

Nyasa means lake, which is why Malawi used to be called Nyasaland. It's also the reason behind the name Nyanja, a Zambian form of the Chichewa language found in Malawi, as it signifies coming from the lake people. At least, this is what was explained to me by one of my teenage students, but it sounds good to me. (note: I Wikipedia-ed it, seems legit)

Emily and I turned our long weekend into an extra-long weekend and set off for the big lake in our little neighbor. Traveling there was a long sequence of mini-journeys, and a lot of last minute successes. After riding with friends to Chipata, our eastern border town, we crossed over into Malawi and took a cab to their border town: Mchinja. Already running behind schedule at this point, we took a 2 hours mini-bus ride which put us in Lilongwe right as night was falling. As we were leaving very early the next day, we needed to pick up some groceries that night, but when we got to Shoprite the guard was just locking the door. With pathetic looks on our faces we pleaded with him to no avail, but our foot in the door emboldened the small crowd that was gathering behind us who, tiring of our soft approach, eventually muscled past us and the guard, allowing us to slip in behind them apologetically. After a somewhat manic shopping session we managed to get everything we needed and only be the second to last person to check out.

We quickly left everything at the lodge and eagerly rushed off to try a restaurant which had been highly recommended to us. After a wrong try, we arrived at the correct Latitudes to find they had just closed the kitchen 20 minutes before. Breaking out our pathetic faces again, we recounted our long journey for the sole purpose of eating there, and at last folding to our charms, the staff allowed us to make a quick order. I’m very glad they did too because the food was fantastic.

Early morning we arrived at the bus station, not totally sure whether the bus we planned to take actually existed. To our relief, we found it where it was supposed to be, with plenty of empty seats. That situation persisted for about two hours until finally all the seats filled, and then the aisle filled too with people standing. Little did we know that this was a full-size bus which thought it was a mini-bus. The 3 hour ride took us about 7 hours, as the bus made frequent stops to drop and pick up passengers. However, we had seats, music, and cheese so we were generally content. Fortunately, the staff at Kayak Africa agreed to wait for our arrival (3 hours later than expected) so we could get across to Domwe Island that night. After another car ride from Monkey Bay (bus stop) to Cape Maclear (on the water), we were finally getting into our kayaks and starting the 2 mile journey to the island. Halfway across we rested our arms and took in the beautiful sunset on the lake and the near absolute stillness of the whole scene.

The camp is just a small scattering of shelters tucked into the side of the large island, accessible from a little sandy beach where we left our kayaks. It is built into the forest, with only a few wood structures visible from the water. Our tent platform was one, and it gave a beautiful view of the water and moonset. The other few platforms and safari tents were hidden away within the trees, along with a kitchen, an outdoor shower, and a dining area right on the water. Trails meandered between everything, among rocks and roots under heavy tree cover, and were patrolled by civet cats and bush pigs. Without electricity the whole setting felt very peaceful and natural, but with the benefit of a gas stove and a freezer cooled by ice.

(Dining area)

In the two days we were there, we spent the majority of our time on the water, taking a cruise on a rented catamaran for sunset on one day, and for the afternoon on the next. It’s the only place in the region where everyone (generally) agrees it’s free (enough) of crocs and hippos to get in the water, so we partook in the rare pleasure of swimming, though I still couldn’t quite shake the anxiety that comes with being in African water. The sunsets over the water were spectacular, and the nights were cool and free of mosquitos. The water also provided us with fresh fish, which we had whole and in a curry. On top of that, the staff at the camp baked fresh bread every morning.

On one morning we hiked to the top of the island, scrambling up a steep and overgrown trail, until we burst out onto rocks with a stunning view of the vast blue in front of us. Peculiarly persistent flies kept us from lingering too long though, and we decided to have our packed lunch on the move instead (not before snapping a quick shot from the top!)

After two relaxing days in this little sanctuary, we were ferried back to the mainland, and set out on the long road ahead. Fortunately for us, the guy who’d driven us to Cape Maclear was there to meet us when we got off the boat, and gave us a very decent rate to get all the way back to Lilongwe in his tiny little car.

The drive back was much shorter and more enjoyable than the way out. We jammed out to Malawian and, for our benefit, Zambian pop songs, dancing and singing our way up the steep, winding road across the mountains. At times it seemed like our synchronized head bobbing was the only thing urging that little car up the crest of the hills. Eventually we made it over, and, by the afternoon were back in Chipata, where we celebrated one last night of vacation with a nice hotel room and dinner. For a trip which consisted of 1/3 vacation, 2/3 traveling, it was surprisingly very relaxing, and wonderful to see the huge blue lake one more time.

Courtney Barnett: A Take Away Show

Australian accent, a twangy guitar, and a great sense of humor; Avant Gardener is particularly good.

Johnnyswim: NPR Tiny Desk Concert

This band's got great harmonies, energy and stage presence; really enjoyed their live performance on NPR.

Namibia Trip Itinerary

Last month I was lucky enough to take a second trip to Namibia, almost two years to the day after my first. You can read about that trip here if you’re interested in the more poetic descriptions of this beautiful country. This time around I’m taking a pragmatic approach, giving you our day by day itinerary and recommendations in the hopes that it could be useful for planning your own trip to one of the most environmentally impressive destinations in the region.

Flights: Air Namibia from Lusaka to Windhoek (highly recommend flying in as opposed to driving; you’ll be spending enough time in the car as it is)

Car Rental: I’ve used 2 different companies: Advanced Car Hire and Camping Car Hire. Both are reputable companies which gave similar, high quality services, but I would recommend Advance Car Hire based on the size of the vehicle they rent and the quality and organization of the camping supplies they provide. Booking a car should be the one thing you do well in advance, at least one or two months ahead, especially at holiday times.

Money: the Namibian dollar is pegged to the South African rand, and they accept both interchangeably. Everyone I’ve traveled with has been able to withdraw from ATMs, which is probably the easiest way, but not a bad idea to bring some USD to exchange too.

Day 1

Windhoek

Accommodation: Carboard Box Backpackers: well-known hostel with both dorm and room options, a kitchen and a pool. It can fill up with young loud travelers, which you may or may not be into. While I’ve been happy with my experiences in their private rooms, I have heard negative feedback about the dorms. Private rooms cost around 35 USD a night. Here's their other site with some useful info for planning trips.

We arrived on a morning flight and were picked up by the car hire company airport shuttle. We weren’t able to, but I suggest doing the paperwork on the afternoon of arrival or early morning the next day to save time, since it takes a couple hours to get everything explained and signed. Since we didn’t have the car rented until the next day, we used taxis to do some non-perishable grocery shopping in town. It was a good idea to do the majority of shopping that day to save time the next morning. Good wine is very cheap in Namibia (5-10 USD a bottle); stock up!

For dinner we ate at O Portuga, a Portuguese restaurant with a great menu of both game and seafood. Delicious meal, not too expensive, highly recommend it.  After dinner we investigated the local nightlife at Vibe, actually a surprisingly nice club.

Day 2

Windhoek to Sossusvlei

Accommodation: Sesriem Campsite: a NWR run campsite within the gates of the Sossusvlei park. Highly recommend staying here (and making an advance booking) for the sole reason that you can enter the park at 5 am. People staying elsewhere can only enter at 6 am. If you’re planning to hike Dune 45 at sunrise, staying here will make the difference between seeing sunrise from the dune or not.

We got an early start with the car hire place, but still didn’t make it to the grocery store to buy perishables until 11 so we had to hurry. If possible, it’s good to leave Windhoek before 12 so you don’t have to rush to hike Elin Dune at sunset, and also so you have plenty of time to stop in Solitaire on the way, where you can get excellent pies and desserts from Moose's and check out a bunch of old cars half-buried in sand.

At Sesriem we bought our park permit and drove right into Elin Dune, which is not far into the park, basically the first turn on your right (unmarked). You can get a map from the desk. Afterwards we came back to set up camp and broke in our cooking equipment with some tasty cheeseburgers. There’s an industrial sink by the bathrooms for easier dishwashing.

(View from Elin Dune)

Day 3

Sossuvlei to Naukluft Mountains

Accommodation: Agama River Camp: probably the nicest place I’ve stayed in Namibia. It boasts great, roomy sites for the cars, a pool, dogs, and a patio up at the main house offering beautiful views of sunrise and sunset over the Naukluft Mountains.

In the morning we were up very early and going by about 5 am. Dune 45 is named for being 45 km in the park, so it takes about 30 min to get there and another 10 or so to hike up. We made it near the top for sunrise, which is incredible over this stunningly barren plain dotted with magnificently red sand dunes. Afterwards, we had a quick breakfast by the car before driving into the park where the eponymous Sossusvlei dune is located, as well as Deadvlei, the site of the iconic petrified trees. To get there you have to drive on sand. You can either pay to ride in 4x4s or utilize your own vehicle’s capability, just be sure to deflate your tires and put it in 4 low. We got stuck for a bit on this trip, and friends of ours got stuck for over 2 hours, so proceed with some caution.

It was so hot by 10 am we skipped hiking Sossusvlei dune, but we did hike into Deadvlei to see the trees. After beating a retreat to shade, we headed back in the direction of Windhoek for about an hour to reach Agama River Camp. This is a beautifully situated place, right at the foot of the Naukluft Mountains. We decided to spend two nights here on this trip because of the setting and the proximity to full-day hikes nearby. The highlight of this place may be the showers, with earthen floors that retain the sun’s heat and open roofs giving you a fantastic view of sunset.

(Dune sunrise)

 (Deadvlei)

(Sunset at Agama)

Day 4

Naukluft Mountains

Accomodation: Agama River Camp

We got an early start this morning to make it to the Namib-Naufluft Park before it got too hot. It’s a little over an hour away. You drive through Bullsport (really just a lodge and garage on the left side of the road), and at the junction immediately after you take a right. Keep an eye out for the park entrance (an old gate you open for yourself) on your right about 11 km later. Then drive another 11 km to the office where you pay your park fee and receive a map. There are a few hikes here to choose from, we did the Olive Trail which took us about 4 hours and was fairly easy; only moderate elevation climbs and some rock scrambling in the canyon.

It’s a great hike because it offers diverse scenery, from views over the hills and plains to impressive sheer rock walls and acrobatic vegetation within the canyon. There is a section where you pass rock pools by holding onto chains bolted into the walls, but the easy route on the right is not very challenging. We had a fantastic lunch near the end of our trip, with cheese, salami, chicken salad, and of course, olives. As you exit the canyon, look for the 4x4 track which crosses over the dry river bed, you can follow that back to the trail head.

(View from the trail)

Day 5

Naukluft Mountains to Swakopmund

Accommodation: Alte Brucke: Rooms and campsites on the south end of the city. Campsites are designed for car campers, a small patch of grass next to personal high quality bathroom/kitchen area. Amenities are good quality, but the campsite feels densely packed with people, and it’s definitely a family place, quiet before 10 pm.

As we were only a few hours from Swakopmund we got a leisurely start this morning, packing up our car and saying goodbye to the Agama resident dogs. Within about 3.5 hours we rolled into Swakopmund, between white sand dunes and the ocean. We set up at Alte Brucke which may not have been the most exciting campsite of our trip but we didn’t end up spending much time there anyway. We explored the town on foot, a strangely Germanic place with plenty of cafes and beergardens. That night we ate at Napolitana, an Italian place which was decent but not outstanding.

Day 6

Swakopmund

Accomodation: Alte Brucke

This was a big morning for us, up early for skydiving with Ground Rush Adventures. Their shuttle brought us from our place to the office where we signed our lives away, and then we proceeded to their desert airstrip. The plane was tiny, only big enough for about 6 people huddled together in the back, so I ended up being separated from the others and sent up first. The plane climbed and climbed and climbed, as the horizon expanded over the ocean on one side and desert and mountains on the other. At 10,000 feet, when the ground and ocean below were uniform and devoid of any details save the massive mountains and little city, the sliding door on the plane was quickly and abruptly opened and I was suddenly there on the edge. Then I gently slipped out into the air, a feeling I’ll never forget. We quickly reached terminal velocity, and the feeling of falling was gone, replaced with the sense of being suspended in the air by a giant fan. The rush of air was so powerful my face and hands flapped helplessly, and gaping at the giant expanses of blue and red all I could do was laugh and drool. Once the parachute opened, my guide put us into tight, g-force pressing spins, and stalls that made my stomach lift, but the feeling was almost equally as incredible as the free fall. Overall, this was a highlight of the trip and I would certainly do it again, hopefully somewhere just as beautiful.

Once we were back on the ground we went back to town, giddy with adrenaline. We had lunch at Stadtmitte Café, a pseudo-Starbucks with great eggs florentine and low prices. We then got our permit from the NWR office (walking distance away) for the Welwitschia Drive the next day. Our big day ended with drinks on the patio of The Tug restaurant on the pier. For dinner we had an excellent meal at Kucki’s Pub, with great seafood, oysters, and spaetzle for reasonable prices. Make a reservation because it’s the place to be in this quiet town.

(Angus, Sandy and Emily on their way down)

Day 7

Swakopmund to Welwitschia/ Moonscape Drive

Accommodation: Sophia Dale: a very nice campsite run by a friendly German couple (not as crazy as they look on the website) just off the B2, not far from Swakopmund or the Drive.

In the morning we took an ATV tour with Desert Explorers through the dunes, which was very nice despite a persistent fog. We rode in a line on a marked path through the dunes, so it’s not an ecologically disastrous free-for-all. It was fun riding up the sides of dunes, and the views over the desert were really impressive. It’s a cool activity if you’ve got some free hours in Swakopmund, but for $45 I would also consider doing lie-down sandboarding instead. It’s more of an adrenaline rush, though a shorter experience involving lots of dune hiking (check out Alter-Action for that).

In the afternoon we left town to seek out the Welwitschia Drive. It’s named for the 1,500 year old giant welwitschia plant at the end of it, which is pretty cool, but the real highlight is the drive itself which takes you through what looks like a moonscape. It took us a while to figure out if we were on the right road, but once we reached the 4^th road beacon we knew it for sure; the land opened up into smooth canyons and peaks of rocks that really did look like they could be on the moon. There were many great spots to stop for cool views and pictures. We started the drive around 2 pm and it took us about 4 hours to complete, giving us some of the best sunset lighting. We made it to Sophia Dale before it got dark, and cooked some of the fresh fish we’d bought from The Fish Deli in Swakopmund over the fire.

(Not how you ride ATVs)

(Moonscape)

Day 8

Welwitschia / Moonscape Drive to Spitzkoppe

Accommodation: Spitzkoppe Campsites: The most famous, if not only, campsite at Spitzkoppe; definitely the most bare-bones of the trip (just a fire pit, trash can and outhouse) but also the most beautiful.

We drove back into town in the morning then started up the coast towards Henties Bay. Along the way there’s a recent shipwreck just off to the left. It’s now marked with a sign, Shipwreck Zeila, and you should be able to see it from the road, definitely worth a stop.

We turned off the coast and headed inland to Spitzkoppe, an impressive pair of mountains rising up from the scrub with piles of giant, yellow-red rocks at their base. There’s about 20 campsites nestled among the giant rocks that make up the Spitzkoppe formations. It’s a good idea to get there earlier in the day because they seem to fill up. The showers and sink are located near the entrance, but it’s worth it to go further in (to the left) to find a well-placed campsite. The views here at sunrise, sunset and at night are stunningly spectacular. It does get very hot during the day though, so make sure you’ve got lots of water and sunscreen if you plan on hiking any time after 10 am.

We arrived a few hours before sunset and luckily snagged seemingly the only remaining empty campsite, well positioned between the two mountains. That evening we cooked the remaining fish over a fire and enjoyed the moonrise. Good idea to bring some firewood with you, no guarantees the reception will have it.

(Shipwreck Zeila)

 

(Spitzkoppe)

Day 9

Spitzoppe

Accommodation: Spitzkoppe Campsites

Early on this day, in the gentle sun of this morning, we made an ambitious plan to hike up the two main mountains. Upon reaching the first, and realizing the actual size of the boulders, we scaled back our goals a bit. While we enjoyed a short climb up its first level, our companions made a valiant attempt for the top, but were stopped halfway by treacherous rocks, heat, and a dead end. We retreated to the only shade in the area, offered by our raised car tents, for a nice lunch and re-hydration session. After, we explored the rock pools, which are a substantially easier climb. That evening we were treated to a wonderful farewell, a practically cloudless sky boasting an endless infinitude of stars.

(Our truck under a starry sky)

Day 10

Spitzkoppe to Windhoek

Accommodation: Cardboard Box Backpackers

On our final full day in the country we said goodbye to the wilderness and headed back to the capital. On the nice tarred highways it didn't take long, and we were back at the Cardboard Box by the early afternoon and had returned our truck by 4. That evening we ate at Joe’s Beerhouse, a locally famous restaurant specializing in game meat with a fun atmosphere. If you want to check it out I recommend making a reservation the day before, however it is something of a tourist trap and there are plenty of other good restaurants worth trying in Whindhoek, like The Namibia Institute of Culinary Education (NICE), for example.

A very early flight the next morning makes this effectively our last day of the trip. It was a great time; lots of cool activities in beautiful settings with a fun group of people. Namibia is still my favorite trip of all time, and I highly recommend it, especially for anyone already in the region.

Other destinations worth looking into not included in this trip:

- Twyfelfontein: ancient rock carvings, sacred place, beautiful at sunset

- Camping in Damaraland

- Fish River Canyon: supposedly the 2nd largest canyon in the world, open during the dry season

- Etosha Park: largest game park in the country centered around a large salt pan. Best during dry season when the animals come further south