West Coast Whirlwind

Next time I have to move from somewhere, I’m definitely going to plan it to coincide with a trip. Nothing could've taken the sting out of leaving Zambia quite like 3 ambitious weeks jam-packed with travel, beauty and fantastic food. It’s much easier to pack your bags when you’re planning to do something fun with them.

In mid-August Emily and I boarded our flights from Lusaka, leaving KK International for the last time (as residents), and headed directly for San Francisco. From the minute we left the airport we shifted into high gear. We were there for Emily’s sister’s wedding, taking place just a few days later in Big Sur just south of the city. There was still preparing and arranging to do, but Tammy somehow found time to take us on a delicious oysters and wine tasting day trip. 

(Tomales Bay oysters)

The following day, the whole family convened to wrap up the loose ends, while I snuck off to hang out with my high school friend Brady in Berkeley. He’s blowing glass there and making some incredible pieces, and it was a huge treat to see his studio and the community he’s been living in for the past few years. Berkeley is a cool town, easy access to the city but with a residential feel and hills to hike right in the backyard. I rejoined the family the next day, meeting Emily’s parents for the first time in an apartment crammed with all types of flowers for the wedding décor. That night we had a big meal together then were on our way to Big Sur.

On the way down in the morning we stopped off in Monterey (for a Costco hotdog) and detoured along the beautiful 17-mile drive by the Pebble Beach golf course. There I got my first sight of California coast-line; the stark, saturated blue turquoise of the water bordered in bright white foam. In many places it made a strange, surreal sight, very different than east coast shores.

We arrived in Big Sur and checked into our place right along Highway 1, tucked into the towering green trees. That evening was the rehearsal dinner, held at Big Sur Bakery with courses of delicious home-style cooking, and a mountain of cookies for dessert.

The following day was the wedding. It was held at a really beautiful location: a small old library in a clearing ringed by tall redwoods. We got there early to help set up, and the decorations turned out fantastic. The wedding itself was a ton of fun. It was catered by a bbq food truck, had lots of good music and dancing, and sadly was over in a flash. This was the first wedding I’d been to for someone my age, and it really set the bar high.

(Centerpieces)

(An academic theme: riding to the library on a schoolbus)

(Dessert spread and lights)

After the wedding, Emily, her parents and I spent a fun few days exploring the parks within Big Sur and camping out in a small wood cabin. Endless beautiful coastline, waterfalls, even whales! Hard not to fall for this part of the country.

(Sunset at Pfieffer Beach)

(Surreal McWay Falls)

Back in San Francisco, after our days in the woods, Tammy took us around a city I’d only seen as a small child. We walked all over, from the stadium to the wharf to the bridge, hopping trolley cars and hitting up food and dessert places along the way. In a lot of ways it seems like a fake city, at least the parts I saw. So much man-made and natural beauty, and tons of happenings around every corner; I can easily see why it’s attracted so many friends like some big shiny beacon.  The highlight of our day and a half must’ve been the unbelievable Thai food we had at Kin Khao on our last night.

(Afternoon treat at Ghiradelli Square)

I would’ve been happy to end the trip there, our time in California was packed with good stuff, but this was just the halfway point. Back at the airport we caught our flight to Seattle for what was my first look at this much-loved northwesterly city. Our first stop, though, was a cabin belonging to the uncle of Jeff, a friend of ours from Zambia. He had kindly offered it to us and Emily’s friend from home for a weekend. It was less of the “cabin” we were picturing, having beautiful, homey furnishings instead of dank wooden rooms. Situated right on Puget Sound, it was the perfect place to relax and take in the natural beauty of Washington State. We did do a little work, digging up clams to eat for lunch and dinner one day.  It was a well-fed, well-relaxed weekend after our busy time in California.

(Walking in Washington woods)

(Fruits of our labor)

Over the ensuing week we trekked all over Seattle and I fell in love with a fantastic city. From Safeco Field to the Chilhuly Museum to the waterfront, there’s so much cool stuff to do. We lucked out with our timing and spent a day at the Bumbershoot music festival, where we saw The Head and the Heart, Kishi Bashi, Tom Robbins reading his books, and a live taping of the Moth podcast! Also, the Space Needle is just a downright awesome building. 

We ate so much good food, not even having time to fit it all in (so pressed for time that we had 2 lunches in one day!) After over a week of eating almost exclusively Chinese and Taiwanese food I’m still feeling the pangs of withdrawal. We had a great meal with my old college friend Breese and her new husband, which started with oysters, and ended in delectable lava cake, does it get any better? We also had a personal downtown tour from my friend Seth, co-study abroad mate in Senegal and current Seattle resident. Somehow I also found time in there to meet Deanne and Joseph, two of Emily's closest high school friends. I’m told I should take the fantastic weather we had with a grain of salt, but seriously, in what other American city can you see multiple mountain ranges and the ocean, right from downtown? I could continue raving but I think you get the point. Seattle is a great town (even the libraries are cool), and it was awesome to spend some quality time both in the city and in Emily’s hometown.