Zomba

A week after returning I was back in Malawi, but this time for work and the traveling was much easier. I flew Malawian Air, a resurrection of the recently bankrupt Air Malawi which, judging by its in-flight magazine, is determined to convince the world it will not go the same way as its predecessor. I flew to Blantyre then drove to Zomba, a town which was once the capital of Nyasaland. I found that hard to believe, as it's a sleepy place sitting at the foot of a towering plateau, which has lodges at the top drawing tourists for the views and horseback riding.

Sadly there wasn't time in my trip to get to the top, but it provided a nice backdrop to my stay. I was there to work with the FINCA Malawi team, to gather information on a pilot project we're working on in Zambia. The workdays were full of field visits to meet clients and working with the credit team at the pilot branch. Luckily, there's another Tufts grad, Renata, working for FINCA Malawi on this project, and she was enormously helpful in coordinating our visit and showing us around Zomba. Highlight of the trip was staying at a place called Casa Rossa, a pleasant place with a great view and a menu of incongruous but delicious Italian dishes. Zomba was a surprisingly connected place, as a former Princeton in Africa Fellow, Chris, is currently based there starting up One Acre Fund's program in the country. It was nice meeting up with him again, having last seen him a year ago on his trip to Zambia.

(Renata and I showing off a Tufts tote outside the branch)

(Morning view from Casa Rossa)

Lake Adventures

Nyasa means lake, which is why Malawi used to be called Nyasaland. It's also the reason behind the name Nyanja, a Zambian form of the Chichewa language found in Malawi, as it signifies coming from the lake people. At least, this is what was explained to me by one of my teenage students, but it sounds good to me. (note: I Wikipedia-ed it, seems legit)

Emily and I turned our long weekend into an extra-long weekend and set off for the big lake in our little neighbor. Traveling there was a long sequence of mini-journeys, and a lot of last minute successes. After riding with friends to Chipata, our eastern border town, we crossed over into Malawi and took a cab to their border town: Mchinja. Already running behind schedule at this point, we took a 2 hours mini-bus ride which put us in Lilongwe right as night was falling. As we were leaving very early the next day, we needed to pick up some groceries that night, but when we got to Shoprite the guard was just locking the door. With pathetic looks on our faces we pleaded with him to no avail, but our foot in the door emboldened the small crowd that was gathering behind us who, tiring of our soft approach, eventually muscled past us and the guard, allowing us to slip in behind them apologetically. After a somewhat manic shopping session we managed to get everything we needed and only be the second to last person to check out.

We quickly left everything at the lodge and eagerly rushed off to try a restaurant which had been highly recommended to us. After a wrong try, we arrived at the correct Latitudes to find they had just closed the kitchen 20 minutes before. Breaking out our pathetic faces again, we recounted our long journey for the sole purpose of eating there, and at last folding to our charms, the staff allowed us to make a quick order. I’m very glad they did too because the food was fantastic.

Early morning we arrived at the bus station, not totally sure whether the bus we planned to take actually existed. To our relief, we found it where it was supposed to be, with plenty of empty seats. That situation persisted for about two hours until finally all the seats filled, and then the aisle filled too with people standing. Little did we know that this was a full-size bus which thought it was a mini-bus. The 3 hour ride took us about 7 hours, as the bus made frequent stops to drop and pick up passengers. However, we had seats, music, and cheese so we were generally content. Fortunately, the staff at Kayak Africa agreed to wait for our arrival (3 hours later than expected) so we could get across to Domwe Island that night. After another car ride from Monkey Bay (bus stop) to Cape Maclear (on the water), we were finally getting into our kayaks and starting the 2 mile journey to the island. Halfway across we rested our arms and took in the beautiful sunset on the lake and the near absolute stillness of the whole scene.

The camp is just a small scattering of shelters tucked into the side of the large island, accessible from a little sandy beach where we left our kayaks. It is built into the forest, with only a few wood structures visible from the water. Our tent platform was one, and it gave a beautiful view of the water and moonset. The other few platforms and safari tents were hidden away within the trees, along with a kitchen, an outdoor shower, and a dining area right on the water. Trails meandered between everything, among rocks and roots under heavy tree cover, and were patrolled by civet cats and bush pigs. Without electricity the whole setting felt very peaceful and natural, but with the benefit of a gas stove and a freezer cooled by ice.

(Dining area)

In the two days we were there, we spent the majority of our time on the water, taking a cruise on a rented catamaran for sunset on one day, and for the afternoon on the next. It’s the only place in the region where everyone (generally) agrees it’s free (enough) of crocs and hippos to get in the water, so we partook in the rare pleasure of swimming, though I still couldn’t quite shake the anxiety that comes with being in African water. The sunsets over the water were spectacular, and the nights were cool and free of mosquitos. The water also provided us with fresh fish, which we had whole and in a curry. On top of that, the staff at the camp baked fresh bread every morning.

On one morning we hiked to the top of the island, scrambling up a steep and overgrown trail, until we burst out onto rocks with a stunning view of the vast blue in front of us. Peculiarly persistent flies kept us from lingering too long though, and we decided to have our packed lunch on the move instead (not before snapping a quick shot from the top!)

After two relaxing days in this little sanctuary, we were ferried back to the mainland, and set out on the long road ahead. Fortunately for us, the guy who’d driven us to Cape Maclear was there to meet us when we got off the boat, and gave us a very decent rate to get all the way back to Lilongwe in his tiny little car.

The drive back was much shorter and more enjoyable than the way out. We jammed out to Malawian and, for our benefit, Zambian pop songs, dancing and singing our way up the steep, winding road across the mountains. At times it seemed like our synchronized head bobbing was the only thing urging that little car up the crest of the hills. Eventually we made it over, and, by the afternoon were back in Chipata, where we celebrated one last night of vacation with a nice hotel room and dinner. For a trip which consisted of 1/3 vacation, 2/3 traveling, it was surprisingly very relaxing, and wonderful to see the huge blue lake one more time.

Courtney Barnett: A Take Away Show

Australian accent, a twangy guitar, and a great sense of humor; Avant Gardener is particularly good.

Johnnyswim: NPR Tiny Desk Concert

This band's got great harmonies, energy and stage presence; really enjoyed their live performance on NPR.

Namibia Trip Itinerary

Last month I was lucky enough to take a second trip to Namibia, almost two years to the day after my first. You can read about that trip here if you’re interested in the more poetic descriptions of this beautiful country. This time around I’m taking a pragmatic approach, giving you our day by day itinerary and recommendations in the hopes that it could be useful for planning your own trip to one of the most environmentally impressive destinations in the region.

Flights: Air Namibia from Lusaka to Windhoek (highly recommend flying in as opposed to driving; you’ll be spending enough time in the car as it is)

Car Rental: I’ve used 2 different companies: Advanced Car Hire and Camping Car Hire. Both are reputable companies which gave similar, high quality services, but I would recommend Advance Car Hire based on the size of the vehicle they rent and the quality and organization of the camping supplies they provide. Booking a car should be the one thing you do well in advance, at least one or two months ahead, especially at holiday times.

Money: the Namibian dollar is pegged to the South African rand, and they accept both interchangeably. Everyone I’ve traveled with has been able to withdraw from ATMs, which is probably the easiest way, but not a bad idea to bring some USD to exchange too.

Day 1

Windhoek

Accommodation: Carboard Box Backpackers: well-known hostel with both dorm and room options, a kitchen and a pool. It can fill up with young loud travelers, which you may or may not be into. While I’ve been happy with my experiences in their private rooms, I have heard negative feedback about the dorms. Private rooms cost around 35 USD a night. Here's their other site with some useful info for planning trips.

We arrived on a morning flight and were picked up by the car hire company airport shuttle. We weren’t able to, but I suggest doing the paperwork on the afternoon of arrival or early morning the next day to save time, since it takes a couple hours to get everything explained and signed. Since we didn’t have the car rented until the next day, we used taxis to do some non-perishable grocery shopping in town. It was a good idea to do the majority of shopping that day to save time the next morning. Good wine is very cheap in Namibia (5-10 USD a bottle); stock up!

For dinner we ate at O Portuga, a Portuguese restaurant with a great menu of both game and seafood. Delicious meal, not too expensive, highly recommend it.  After dinner we investigated the local nightlife at Vibe, actually a surprisingly nice club.

Day 2

Windhoek to Sossusvlei

Accommodation: Sesriem Campsite: a NWR run campsite within the gates of the Sossusvlei park. Highly recommend staying here (and making an advance booking) for the sole reason that you can enter the park at 5 am. People staying elsewhere can only enter at 6 am. If you’re planning to hike Dune 45 at sunrise, staying here will make the difference between seeing sunrise from the dune or not.

We got an early start with the car hire place, but still didn’t make it to the grocery store to buy perishables until 11 so we had to hurry. If possible, it’s good to leave Windhoek before 12 so you don’t have to rush to hike Elin Dune at sunset, and also so you have plenty of time to stop in Solitaire on the way, where you can get excellent pies and desserts from Moose's and check out a bunch of old cars half-buried in sand.

At Sesriem we bought our park permit and drove right into Elin Dune, which is not far into the park, basically the first turn on your right (unmarked). You can get a map from the desk. Afterwards we came back to set up camp and broke in our cooking equipment with some tasty cheeseburgers. There’s an industrial sink by the bathrooms for easier dishwashing.

(View from Elin Dune)

Day 3

Sossuvlei to Naukluft Mountains

Accommodation: Agama River Camp: probably the nicest place I’ve stayed in Namibia. It boasts great, roomy sites for the cars, a pool, dogs, and a patio up at the main house offering beautiful views of sunrise and sunset over the Naukluft Mountains.

In the morning we were up very early and going by about 5 am. Dune 45 is named for being 45 km in the park, so it takes about 30 min to get there and another 10 or so to hike up. We made it near the top for sunrise, which is incredible over this stunningly barren plain dotted with magnificently red sand dunes. Afterwards, we had a quick breakfast by the car before driving into the park where the eponymous Sossusvlei dune is located, as well as Deadvlei, the site of the iconic petrified trees. To get there you have to drive on sand. You can either pay to ride in 4x4s or utilize your own vehicle’s capability, just be sure to deflate your tires and put it in 4 low. We got stuck for a bit on this trip, and friends of ours got stuck for over 2 hours, so proceed with some caution.

It was so hot by 10 am we skipped hiking Sossusvlei dune, but we did hike into Deadvlei to see the trees. After beating a retreat to shade, we headed back in the direction of Windhoek for about an hour to reach Agama River Camp. This is a beautifully situated place, right at the foot of the Naukluft Mountains. We decided to spend two nights here on this trip because of the setting and the proximity to full-day hikes nearby. The highlight of this place may be the showers, with earthen floors that retain the sun’s heat and open roofs giving you a fantastic view of sunset.

(Dune sunrise)

 (Deadvlei)

(Sunset at Agama)

Day 4

Naukluft Mountains

Accomodation: Agama River Camp

We got an early start this morning to make it to the Namib-Naufluft Park before it got too hot. It’s a little over an hour away. You drive through Bullsport (really just a lodge and garage on the left side of the road), and at the junction immediately after you take a right. Keep an eye out for the park entrance (an old gate you open for yourself) on your right about 11 km later. Then drive another 11 km to the office where you pay your park fee and receive a map. There are a few hikes here to choose from, we did the Olive Trail which took us about 4 hours and was fairly easy; only moderate elevation climbs and some rock scrambling in the canyon.

It’s a great hike because it offers diverse scenery, from views over the hills and plains to impressive sheer rock walls and acrobatic vegetation within the canyon. There is a section where you pass rock pools by holding onto chains bolted into the walls, but the easy route on the right is not very challenging. We had a fantastic lunch near the end of our trip, with cheese, salami, chicken salad, and of course, olives. As you exit the canyon, look for the 4x4 track which crosses over the dry river bed, you can follow that back to the trail head.

(View from the trail)

Day 5

Naukluft Mountains to Swakopmund

Accommodation: Alte Brucke: Rooms and campsites on the south end of the city. Campsites are designed for car campers, a small patch of grass next to personal high quality bathroom/kitchen area. Amenities are good quality, but the campsite feels densely packed with people, and it’s definitely a family place, quiet before 10 pm.

As we were only a few hours from Swakopmund we got a leisurely start this morning, packing up our car and saying goodbye to the Agama resident dogs. Within about 3.5 hours we rolled into Swakopmund, between white sand dunes and the ocean. We set up at Alte Brucke which may not have been the most exciting campsite of our trip but we didn’t end up spending much time there anyway. We explored the town on foot, a strangely Germanic place with plenty of cafes and beergardens. That night we ate at Napolitana, an Italian place which was decent but not outstanding.

Day 6

Swakopmund

Accomodation: Alte Brucke

This was a big morning for us, up early for skydiving with Ground Rush Adventures. Their shuttle brought us from our place to the office where we signed our lives away, and then we proceeded to their desert airstrip. The plane was tiny, only big enough for about 6 people huddled together in the back, so I ended up being separated from the others and sent up first. The plane climbed and climbed and climbed, as the horizon expanded over the ocean on one side and desert and mountains on the other. At 10,000 feet, when the ground and ocean below were uniform and devoid of any details save the massive mountains and little city, the sliding door on the plane was quickly and abruptly opened and I was suddenly there on the edge. Then I gently slipped out into the air, a feeling I’ll never forget. We quickly reached terminal velocity, and the feeling of falling was gone, replaced with the sense of being suspended in the air by a giant fan. The rush of air was so powerful my face and hands flapped helplessly, and gaping at the giant expanses of blue and red all I could do was laugh and drool. Once the parachute opened, my guide put us into tight, g-force pressing spins, and stalls that made my stomach lift, but the feeling was almost equally as incredible as the free fall. Overall, this was a highlight of the trip and I would certainly do it again, hopefully somewhere just as beautiful.

Once we were back on the ground we went back to town, giddy with adrenaline. We had lunch at Stadtmitte Café, a pseudo-Starbucks with great eggs florentine and low prices. We then got our permit from the NWR office (walking distance away) for the Welwitschia Drive the next day. Our big day ended with drinks on the patio of The Tug restaurant on the pier. For dinner we had an excellent meal at Kucki’s Pub, with great seafood, oysters, and spaetzle for reasonable prices. Make a reservation because it’s the place to be in this quiet town.

(Angus, Sandy and Emily on their way down)

Day 7

Swakopmund to Welwitschia/ Moonscape Drive

Accommodation: Sophia Dale: a very nice campsite run by a friendly German couple (not as crazy as they look on the website) just off the B2, not far from Swakopmund or the Drive.

In the morning we took an ATV tour with Desert Explorers through the dunes, which was very nice despite a persistent fog. We rode in a line on a marked path through the dunes, so it’s not an ecologically disastrous free-for-all. It was fun riding up the sides of dunes, and the views over the desert were really impressive. It’s a cool activity if you’ve got some free hours in Swakopmund, but for $45 I would also consider doing lie-down sandboarding instead. It’s more of an adrenaline rush, though a shorter experience involving lots of dune hiking (check out Alter-Action for that).

In the afternoon we left town to seek out the Welwitschia Drive. It’s named for the 1,500 year old giant welwitschia plant at the end of it, which is pretty cool, but the real highlight is the drive itself which takes you through what looks like a moonscape. It took us a while to figure out if we were on the right road, but once we reached the 4^th road beacon we knew it for sure; the land opened up into smooth canyons and peaks of rocks that really did look like they could be on the moon. There were many great spots to stop for cool views and pictures. We started the drive around 2 pm and it took us about 4 hours to complete, giving us some of the best sunset lighting. We made it to Sophia Dale before it got dark, and cooked some of the fresh fish we’d bought from The Fish Deli in Swakopmund over the fire.

(Not how you ride ATVs)

(Moonscape)

Day 8

Welwitschia / Moonscape Drive to Spitzkoppe

Accommodation: Spitzkoppe Campsites: The most famous, if not only, campsite at Spitzkoppe; definitely the most bare-bones of the trip (just a fire pit, trash can and outhouse) but also the most beautiful.

We drove back into town in the morning then started up the coast towards Henties Bay. Along the way there’s a recent shipwreck just off to the left. It’s now marked with a sign, Shipwreck Zeila, and you should be able to see it from the road, definitely worth a stop.

We turned off the coast and headed inland to Spitzkoppe, an impressive pair of mountains rising up from the scrub with piles of giant, yellow-red rocks at their base. There’s about 20 campsites nestled among the giant rocks that make up the Spitzkoppe formations. It’s a good idea to get there earlier in the day because they seem to fill up. The showers and sink are located near the entrance, but it’s worth it to go further in (to the left) to find a well-placed campsite. The views here at sunrise, sunset and at night are stunningly spectacular. It does get very hot during the day though, so make sure you’ve got lots of water and sunscreen if you plan on hiking any time after 10 am.

We arrived a few hours before sunset and luckily snagged seemingly the only remaining empty campsite, well positioned between the two mountains. That evening we cooked the remaining fish over a fire and enjoyed the moonrise. Good idea to bring some firewood with you, no guarantees the reception will have it.

(Shipwreck Zeila)

 

(Spitzkoppe)

Day 9

Spitzoppe

Accommodation: Spitzkoppe Campsites

Early on this day, in the gentle sun of this morning, we made an ambitious plan to hike up the two main mountains. Upon reaching the first, and realizing the actual size of the boulders, we scaled back our goals a bit. While we enjoyed a short climb up its first level, our companions made a valiant attempt for the top, but were stopped halfway by treacherous rocks, heat, and a dead end. We retreated to the only shade in the area, offered by our raised car tents, for a nice lunch and re-hydration session. After, we explored the rock pools, which are a substantially easier climb. That evening we were treated to a wonderful farewell, a practically cloudless sky boasting an endless infinitude of stars.

(Our truck under a starry sky)

Day 10

Spitzkoppe to Windhoek

Accommodation: Cardboard Box Backpackers

On our final full day in the country we said goodbye to the wilderness and headed back to the capital. On the nice tarred highways it didn't take long, and we were back at the Cardboard Box by the early afternoon and had returned our truck by 4. That evening we ate at Joe’s Beerhouse, a locally famous restaurant specializing in game meat with a fun atmosphere. If you want to check it out I recommend making a reservation the day before, however it is something of a tourist trap and there are plenty of other good restaurants worth trying in Whindhoek, like The Namibia Institute of Culinary Education (NICE), for example.

A very early flight the next morning makes this effectively our last day of the trip. It was a great time; lots of cool activities in beautiful settings with a fun group of people. Namibia is still my favorite trip of all time, and I highly recommend it, especially for anyone already in the region.

Other destinations worth looking into not included in this trip:

- Twyfelfontein: ancient rock carvings, sacred place, beautiful at sunset

- Camping in Damaraland

- Fish River Canyon: supposedly the 2nd largest canyon in the world, open during the dry season

- Etosha Park: largest game park in the country centered around a large salt pan. Best during dry season when the animals come further south

Managing Matero

In February I hit the reset button again at FINCA, this time to enter the final stage of the four-part management development program I entered in August of 2012.

Last time I wrote about work I was preparing to start as manager of the branch I had been working at since February 2013. This would prove to be the most challenging position I’d held so far, at FINCA or elsewhere. I managed Matero branch for 6 months. In that time its staff grew from 29 to 40 and the loan portfolio increased from about 1.5 to 2 million USD. Managing the size of the branch was the biggest challenge; with over 5,000 clients and 25 Loan Officers I needed to become more hands-off and rely heavily on my Supervisors, which wasn’t always easy for me. Being so far removed from most of the client-level action, I learned that putting in place the right structures and processes was going to yield more results (at least in the long term) than trying to personally solve every problem. This was hard to remember each month-end when we had to report our performance. Each month was a cycle of preparation and then the inevitable hectic chaos in the final week as final loans were approved and arrears were collected. It was pretty exhausting.

It wasn’t always like that though. The 6 months were immensely important for both my practical knowledge and personal growth, and I learned a great deal in areas where previously I had little experience. There were also many moments of reward and satisfaction mixed in there. Some of my favorites included the promotions of colleagues I had worked with for a long time, our team building activities after meeting monthly goals, and the customer care day where we hosted clients and staff alike at our branch and recognized our most venerable clients. One village banking group at the event told their story of 12 years of growth and loyalty at FINCA, and it reminded everyone why this work can be so powerful. It was also fulfilling to be in a position to make positive change in that particular branch's universe. Whether it was developing staff, improving the branch experience for the clients, or trying to guide good performance (#2 branch of the year!), each success felt like it made a difference.

(Customer Care Desk at Matero)

(Christmas Raffle presentation)

 (Customer Care Day at Matero- dance troupe in the car park)

  (CC Day at Matero- hosting Head Office staff)

 (CC Day at Matero- VB group recognized for 12 years of loyalty)

(Last Matero teambuilding- goodbye cake and oversized card)

At the end of 6 months I was ready to try a new position and see how else I might fit into the microfinance equation. Still, I know I will sometimes be nostalgic for the branch level, where so much of the success, progress and craziness is happening. I know I'll miss Matero, where I unexpectedly spent a year of my life. My new position, as of February, is Credit Manager for one of FINCA Zambia’s new loan products, Small Enterprise Lending. This product caters to the Zambian entrepreneurs running businesses which are larger and more developed than what MFI’s have traditionally funded. The loans we currently give range between 20 and 60 thousand USD. It’s the new frontier for microfinance, and the same clients are also being targeted by banks through downscaling efforts. These clients represent, along with savings, a future of self-sustaining business for the industry, where the ultimate goal is increasing accessibility and decreasing cost for business people of all sizes who are not currently included in the traditional financial system. 

Jinja Retreat

In February 2012 a group of fellows from my Princeton in Africa class gathered in Nairobi for a retreat. Over two years later I was on my way to attend a second one, this time in Jinja, Uganda. The experience our year was informally organized, but was both productive and fun. We were able to explore the big city and enjoy some leisure time while also mixing in activities to help us process our fellowship experiences up to that point. In fact, the retreat was one of the most memorable experiences of that year, and certainly the most important in connecting my fellowship class. The bonds built during that week had a positive impact on the rest of my experience, and many still persevere to today.

I was excited when the PiAf staff reached out to me last year about helping facilitate the 2014 retreat. First, it was a trip to a country I’d never visited. Second, it was a chance for me to help another group of fellows have as fun and profitable of an experience as we had. My trip had a couple inauspicious starts, with me coming as close as I ever have to missing a flight due to some slow-moving money changers at the airport. Delay notwithstanding, I made the flight and arrived in Entebbe, Uganda in the early morning hours. Entebbe is home to the airport which services the capital Kampala, but it’s over an hour away even with no traffic. Worst I’d seen up to then was Namibia and even that’s less than 45 minutes from the capital. Eventually I got to my hostel where I managed a few hours of sleep before an early morning wake up call to head to Jinja, the town on the Nile where the retreat was taking place.

My travel companions were Stephanie and Agatha, two employees of PiAf and the actual organizers of the retreat. For the first day and a half in Jinja we did last minute shopping, preparation of material, and confirming with all the local businesses we’d be dealing with. While in town I took the opportunity to visit the FINCA branch, where the branch manager knew many of my current colleagues. It was cool to see that a bond exists across subsidiaries. We also took scope of the place where we’d be staying and hosting the activities, Nile River Explorers, a beautiful camp overlooking the Nile from a cliff. The first 24 hours there was a little rocky, with my work phone being stolen the morning we arrived and me having to spend a few hours at the local police station getting a report. However, thanks most likely to serious doggedness on the part of NRE’s manager, I found the phone turned in at reception the next morning. After that second speedbump it was pretty smooth sailing.

(Visiting FINCA Jinja Branch)

(View of the Nile from NRE's patio)

The Fellows started to arrive at NRE that Friday and we opened the retreat over dinner along with Frank, a PiAf founding member and an integral part of every class’s experience. The schedule was far more organized and busy than my year; timing had been calculated very precisely and everything ran pretty much like clockwork (no small feat in a “beach” town). The caliber of the activities and events was very high. Many were ones carried over from my year, other were new. I ran a couple, one on career paths and another one using skits to express challenges in their jobs or experiences, which they did incredibly well. All the sessions were well designed to promote sharing, growth and free expression among the fellows. I was very impressed with their mindset coming into the retreat. They all seemed ready to open up and be honest with each other, and it was great to see how quickly the bonds started forming.

We did manage to squeeze some fun into all that serious personal growth. On Sunday we took a boat trip up the Nile to a tiny island on Lake Victoria, where we enjoyed some swimming and Frisbee and tried not to be freaked out by the alarming number of birds nesting there. There were also excellent group dinners at an Indian restaurant and a pizza place. It’s worth noting that my favorite African beer, Castle Milk Stout, which is so rare in Lusaka it’s only found at one store, was stocked in every bar and restaurant we went to in Jinja. I’m not embarrassed to say it was a pretty big highlight of the trip for me.

("Source" of the Nile, beginning of Lake Victoria)

(Frisbee on Bird Island)

On top of everything else, I was also lucky enough to get to visit with my good friend Rahul at his place in Kampala before leaving. He timed his birthday dinner for that night so I was able to meet his friends and girlfriend, which was excellent. Hard to believe it'd been about 2 years since we'd last seen each other. Things felt just the same, it was only that every aspect of our surroundings had changed. Despite initial fears, spending the night there didn't result in me missing my early morning flight home, and the trip back was uneventful, if roundabout.

In my mind the retreat went really well. The organizers did a fantastic job, and the fellows really held up their end of it by being enthusiastic and invested in every activity that weekend. Personally, I left feeling doubly refreshed by the trip. First, just from being near the water in such a beautiful environment, and second, by being surrounded by people whose stories, challenges and passions reminded me of my own feelings and reasons for being where I am.