Zomba

A week after returning I was back in Malawi, but this time for work and the traveling was much easier. I flew Malawian Air, a resurrection of the recently bankrupt Air Malawi which, judging by its in-flight magazine, is determined to convince the world it will not go the same way as its predecessor. I flew to Blantyre then drove to Zomba, a town which was once the capital of Nyasaland. I found that hard to believe, as it's a sleepy place sitting at the foot of a towering plateau, which has lodges at the top drawing tourists for the views and horseback riding.

Sadly there wasn't time in my trip to get to the top, but it provided a nice backdrop to my stay. I was there to work with the FINCA Malawi team, to gather information on a pilot project we're working on in Zambia. The workdays were full of field visits to meet clients and working with the credit team at the pilot branch. Luckily, there's another Tufts grad, Renata, working for FINCA Malawi on this project, and she was enormously helpful in coordinating our visit and showing us around Zomba. Highlight of the trip was staying at a place called Casa Rossa, a pleasant place with a great view and a menu of incongruous but delicious Italian dishes. Zomba was a surprisingly connected place, as a former Princeton in Africa Fellow, Chris, is currently based there starting up One Acre Fund's program in the country. It was nice meeting up with him again, having last seen him a year ago on his trip to Zambia.

(Renata and I showing off a Tufts tote outside the branch)

(Morning view from Casa Rossa)

Lake Adventures

Nyasa means lake, which is why Malawi used to be called Nyasaland. It's also the reason behind the name Nyanja, a Zambian form of the Chichewa language found in Malawi, as it signifies coming from the lake people. At least, this is what was explained to me by one of my teenage students, but it sounds good to me. (note: I Wikipedia-ed it, seems legit)

Emily and I turned our long weekend into an extra-long weekend and set off for the big lake in our little neighbor. Traveling there was a long sequence of mini-journeys, and a lot of last minute successes. After riding with friends to Chipata, our eastern border town, we crossed over into Malawi and took a cab to their border town: Mchinja. Already running behind schedule at this point, we took a 2 hours mini-bus ride which put us in Lilongwe right as night was falling. As we were leaving very early the next day, we needed to pick up some groceries that night, but when we got to Shoprite the guard was just locking the door. With pathetic looks on our faces we pleaded with him to no avail, but our foot in the door emboldened the small crowd that was gathering behind us who, tiring of our soft approach, eventually muscled past us and the guard, allowing us to slip in behind them apologetically. After a somewhat manic shopping session we managed to get everything we needed and only be the second to last person to check out.

We quickly left everything at the lodge and eagerly rushed off to try a restaurant which had been highly recommended to us. After a wrong try, we arrived at the correct Latitudes to find they had just closed the kitchen 20 minutes before. Breaking out our pathetic faces again, we recounted our long journey for the sole purpose of eating there, and at last folding to our charms, the staff allowed us to make a quick order. I’m very glad they did too because the food was fantastic.

Early morning we arrived at the bus station, not totally sure whether the bus we planned to take actually existed. To our relief, we found it where it was supposed to be, with plenty of empty seats. That situation persisted for about two hours until finally all the seats filled, and then the aisle filled too with people standing. Little did we know that this was a full-size bus which thought it was a mini-bus. The 3 hour ride took us about 7 hours, as the bus made frequent stops to drop and pick up passengers. However, we had seats, music, and cheese so we were generally content. Fortunately, the staff at Kayak Africa agreed to wait for our arrival (3 hours later than expected) so we could get across to Domwe Island that night. After another car ride from Monkey Bay (bus stop) to Cape Maclear (on the water), we were finally getting into our kayaks and starting the 2 mile journey to the island. Halfway across we rested our arms and took in the beautiful sunset on the lake and the near absolute stillness of the whole scene.

The camp is just a small scattering of shelters tucked into the side of the large island, accessible from a little sandy beach where we left our kayaks. It is built into the forest, with only a few wood structures visible from the water. Our tent platform was one, and it gave a beautiful view of the water and moonset. The other few platforms and safari tents were hidden away within the trees, along with a kitchen, an outdoor shower, and a dining area right on the water. Trails meandered between everything, among rocks and roots under heavy tree cover, and were patrolled by civet cats and bush pigs. Without electricity the whole setting felt very peaceful and natural, but with the benefit of a gas stove and a freezer cooled by ice.

(Dining area)

In the two days we were there, we spent the majority of our time on the water, taking a cruise on a rented catamaran for sunset on one day, and for the afternoon on the next. It’s the only place in the region where everyone (generally) agrees it’s free (enough) of crocs and hippos to get in the water, so we partook in the rare pleasure of swimming, though I still couldn’t quite shake the anxiety that comes with being in African water. The sunsets over the water were spectacular, and the nights were cool and free of mosquitos. The water also provided us with fresh fish, which we had whole and in a curry. On top of that, the staff at the camp baked fresh bread every morning.

On one morning we hiked to the top of the island, scrambling up a steep and overgrown trail, until we burst out onto rocks with a stunning view of the vast blue in front of us. Peculiarly persistent flies kept us from lingering too long though, and we decided to have our packed lunch on the move instead (not before snapping a quick shot from the top!)

After two relaxing days in this little sanctuary, we were ferried back to the mainland, and set out on the long road ahead. Fortunately for us, the guy who’d driven us to Cape Maclear was there to meet us when we got off the boat, and gave us a very decent rate to get all the way back to Lilongwe in his tiny little car.

The drive back was much shorter and more enjoyable than the way out. We jammed out to Malawian and, for our benefit, Zambian pop songs, dancing and singing our way up the steep, winding road across the mountains. At times it seemed like our synchronized head bobbing was the only thing urging that little car up the crest of the hills. Eventually we made it over, and, by the afternoon were back in Chipata, where we celebrated one last night of vacation with a nice hotel room and dinner. For a trip which consisted of 1/3 vacation, 2/3 traveling, it was surprisingly very relaxing, and wonderful to see the huge blue lake one more time.