Home for the Holidays (sort of)

A tradition is a hard thing to define. We do it because we do it, because maybe we’ve always done it. They snowball, originating in some small action at first, but gaining more weight with each repetition. They are sentimental in a way routines usually are not, but both give us a similar sense of comfort and security. I’ve always relied heavily on traditions to give definition and meaning to events like holidays; Christmas more than any other. This year, celebrating for the first time away from home, I saw what remains after the bulk of those traditions is stripped away.

Up until I watched them walking out of the Lusaka airport baggage claim, I didn’t quite believe that my family would be in Zambia. After a year and a half, the two worlds of home and here were feeling separate and distinctly different. The twelve day experience of fusing them together was both strange and exciting. Seeing Lusaka through their eyes was refreshing. They pointed out all the little things that make this place special and interesting, and unintentionally reminded me of how lucky I’ve been here.

To allow for acclimatization, we spent the first few days in the capital. They settled in comfortably at my friend’s house, who also lent us her car while on holiday (thanks Jes!). We visited the ever-entertaining elephant orphanage and later the same day played with two feisty lion cubs in Lusaka West. While trying to find a shortcut between the two places, I inadvertently pushed my family into the deep end of the city. In a convoy of minibuses, we navigated a particularly muddy, cratered and congested area of New Soweto market. While it was a bit of a shock at the time, it was a lucky opportunity for them to see one of the many sides of this city. We wrapped up the first leg of their visit by having dinner at the home of some good friends, where the meal was delicious and the embarrassing anecdotes flowed as freely as the wine.

(New Soweto market, Photo credit Sophie)

On the 22^nd we flew to South Luangwa National Park in the northeast of the country. It was my first visit to this popular destination so I was equally excited. The holiday we enjoyed over the next few days with Robin Pope Safaris exceeded even the rave reviews of my friends. Even though it was the rainy season it was unseasonably dry, allowing us to enjoy the game drives even more. Our guide was excellent, very passionate about birds in particular, and he showed us the beauty of the Luangwa valley. Christmas day was especially memorable; our first lion encounter in the morning, a holiday lunch, and then sundowners on a picturesque hilltop. I don’t think we could’ve asked for a better experience.

Following another evening in Lusaka dining with friends, we flew down to Livingstone to see Victoria Falls. I particularly enjoyed the flight as the pilot happened to be a friend and I was able to sit in the cockpit to observe the landing. It brought back childhood memories of meeting the pilots on a commercial flight; the only thing missing was the little pin-on wings. Compared to our languid safari schedule we were very active in the nation’s tourism capital. We marveled at the falls from every angle, even getting a bird’s eye view from above. The highlight for me was getting the chance to share another experience with my family, showing them around Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe where I’d been almost five years earlier. It reminded me how long they’ve been supporting (and putting up with) my travels.

I think my family enjoyed themselves here. In a relatively short time they experienced many different things that make Zambia what it is. They also saw firsthand the people and places that make my life what it is. They finally met my friends and girlfriend; important people I’d previously only been able to convey through words. And in the end, we were together for the holidays, which was special for all of us.

What did I gain from this experience besides some holiday weight and a bunch of pictures? I learned the meaning of Christmas, sort of. I’ve seen that our traditions at home are a huge part of what makes Christmas what it is. Some traditions can adapt to a change of context (family time, watching Elf on safari, presents under a two foot fake tree), while others can’t be translated. The void left by those missing others, though, is fertile soil for growing new traditions, and that’s a very exciting thing to realize.