When I started this job with
One Acre Fund, one of the first places I visited was Ethiopia, barely 2 weeks
after arriving in Kenya (a sign of travel demands to come). Since then, I’ve
visited 7 times, by far the most of any other place I’ve traveled. I’ve known
our the counterparts at our partner organization there for almost 2 years, and
their office is as much an office to me as the One Acre Fund office here in
Kenya. Ethiopia really started to feel like a second home in general, with
people I cared about, wonderful food, and incredibly interesting history. In
all that time, though, I hadn’t managed to fit in any trips to see all the
amazing places the country has to offer, from fantastically old historical and
religious sites, to unique and expansive mountain ranges, and even a volcano. I
finally managed to fix that this past April, made all the better by traveling
it with Emily and being able to celebrate my 30th birthday together
in my second home.
Ethiopia has a lot to offer over
a huge area, so with only 1 week we had to pick just region to visit. We
decided on the northern circuit in Amhara region, where we split out time
between historical sites in Gondar and Lalibela, and trekking in the Simien
Mountains. A big money-saving tip someone gave us was to buy all our flights as
a multi-city ticket on the Ethiopian Airlines website (international +
domestic)- we probably saved 50% of the cost doing it this way.
Gondar
Gondar was one of the ancient
capitals of the Ethiopian kingdoms, and is the closest big town to Debark,
where you set out for Simiens hikes. Can’t speak to what Debark is like, but
there are some things to see in Gondar and it’s only about 1.5 hour away, so it
seemed like a more interesting place to stay. We stayed at Lodge du Chateau,
which was decent but nothing too special apart from its proximity to the castle
and the really nice included breakfasts. You might be able to find a better
value elsewhere, everything’s pretty walkable there. Random note, if you're there over Easter like we were and are a light sleeper, you'll want some earplugs- the masses are loud and last through the night.
We ended up spending 3 nights
in Gondar before and after the trek, but we probably could’ve cut it down to 2
nights. After we visited Fasil Ghebbi, the main castle attraction, and FourSisters Restaurant there wasn’t too much else to see. Fasil Ghebbi was really
cool and definitely worth visiting for a couple hours- it’s open until 6pm.
It’s a huge walled area containing all the former palaces of the emperors from
the 16th and 17th centuries.
(Fasil Ghebbi)
Simien Mountains
The Simiens are an impressive
and extensive mountain range formed by volcanic activity, with amazing views
that extend miles and miles into the distance. They’re also home to endemic
wildlife like the Ethiopian wolf and the Gelada. You’re at altitude most of the
hike, peaking around 4,400m, but otherwise the hiking is pretty accessible.
We spent some time debating
how long of a hike to do in the Simiens- there’s anything from 2 nights to a
week plus. We settled on 3 nights, which fit our schedule and seemed just long
enough to make it to the 2nd highest peak in Ethiopia. To get to the
highest peak, Ras Dashen, you’d need around 10 days. It’s certainly doable on
your own- you could bring your own food and gear and hire a scout at the
national park office in Debark, but we decided to go with a tour group. We went
with Dezy of Simien Mountains Trekking and Tours because of his high reviews on
Trip Advisor, but there are plenty of others out there. While he doesn’t
actually come on the hikes, Dezy coordinated all the people, gear and food and
gave us an easy and enjoyable experience. We paid $266 per person for 4 days,
including all food, which was delicious, and gear, which was good quality and
kept us nice and warm. On that, definitely pack warm clothes (multiple layers,
a heavy jacket if you’ve got one, hat and gloves) and rain gear- it gets cold
up there after the sun sets.
We had some hazy views the
first couple of days, but once we got up into the real heights the views were
amazing, and we were able to see lots of Geladas, and even a couple Ethiopian
wolves and Walia ibexes. We were tired and smelly by the 4th day,
but it was an awesome experience and definitely worth doing.
(Gelada)
(Simien landscapes)
Lalibela
We decided to end our trip in
Lalibela and I’m very glad we did. It’s a smaller town than Gondar, but much
more pleasant with lots of interesting things to do. The main attraction here
is the historical and religious significance. In the 12th century,
the Ethiopian King Lalibela decided to make a second Jerusalem right there
northern Ethiopian, as an easier pilgrimage alternative for Ethiopian
Christians, as the trek to the real Jerusalem was long and dangerous. They
built ten churches that represent sites and themes of Christian significance,
and they are incredible. They are all rock-hewn churches, and most are
monolithic, meaning they carved the things straight into solid rock. It’s
difficult to comprehend the workmanship and planning needed to make them in
present day, let alone 800 years ago, especially when you see the detail in the
interiors.
There seem to be many great
guides to choose from in Lalibela, but I highly recommend seeing the churches
with Sefiw (sefiw60@yahoo.com, +251911913759). He was very knowledgeable,
enjoyable to spend time with, and flexible. We split the visits over 2 half
days, which I’m very glad we did; I could see it getting a bit tiring seeing
all 10 churches in 1 day.
Since they were built, they’ve
been used continuously as working churches. We were able to see a Sunday
service while we were there, both at a number of the churches in town, and at a
monastery slightly outside of town. We were glad we added that in because it
was quite different. We also went with Sifew, so could negotiate a cheaper
package price for everything.
We spent 3 nights in Lalibela.
We spent the first night at a budget place, Alef Paradise Hotel, which was
fine. Cheap price, but lots of mosquitos in the room and no net, so didn’t
sleep well. We splurged on our last 2 nights for my birthday at the Maribela Hotel, which was great. All the rooms have a stunning balcony view of the
sounding mountains, and there’s a really nice garden to relax in. Best hotel of
the trip. We had my birthday dinner at Ben Abeba, which is definitely worth a
visit for the bizarre architecture and beautiful views, even if the food is
nothing special. Much better to get there early to enjoy the views before
sunset. Two restaurants we did really enjoy were Kana and Seven Olives (great place to get a traditional fasting plate). Also, all the coffee ceremonies we had throughout the trip, but particularly in Lalibela, were a major highlight.
(Coffee ceremony)
(2 of the rock-hewn churches)
Addis Ababa
We left Lalibela on the
morning flight and reached Addis by lunchtime. We stayed at the Sidra Hotel, a good
value since we negotiated them down to $60 a night. That evening we went on an
awesome food tour around Addis with Go Addis Tours, a birthday gift from Emily
and one of the highlights of the whole trip. We visited multiple excellent
restaurants, eating delicious Ethiopian dishes like shiro and tibs (at Yilma- so good), and drank
lots of Ethiopian beer (way more varieties than I knew). I learned a lot
about Ethiopian food and some new restaurants- only wish I’d done it sooner! Addis is a cool city, and while we didn't have much time to explore it on this trip, here are some recommendations from other trips:
- Africa Jazz Village at Ghion Hotel
- Sishu for great burgers
- Tomoca Coffee for an excellent macchiato and some bags of beans to take home (check out the original on Wawel Street for the most character)
- National Museum of Ethiopia to see Lucy and learn about Ethiopian history
- Kategna Restaurant to try a variety of Ethiopian dishes
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