06 February, 2014

Lessons, Easy and Hard

Life in Zambia presents an often unique set of problems and resolutions, each with their own lessons. In this post I want to talk specifically about lessons involving things lost; sometimes found again, sometimes not.

Robbery is not a common thing here in Zambia, though having dealt with it every few months I can say it’s far more common than any other place I've lived. Many of the incidents had an element of luck to them, some did not. Each had a lesson to be gained from it, though there sure are a lot to learn.

My first experience with robbery here is tied for both the luckiest and stupidest. Having left our gate open as well as our front door I don’t think there could've been a clearer invitation for a passing opportunist. I came home around midnight to pack for an early morning trip to find my computer and camera missing. After waking up my sleeping roommates I started to look around outside when I heard footsteps behind our garage. I turned the corner in time to see someone climbing over the wall into our neighbors’ property. My roommates and I headed him off outside their house, catching him just before he disappeared into the cane fields. Upon capture he immediately confessed that he had hidden all the items in the same cane fields, after making probably 4 or 5 quiet trips into the house full of sleeping people. We were wary of entering the fields alone, but of course there’s no 911 to call here, so my roommate took my car (a minivan at the time) to go pick up police officers from the nearest post. Once we had some backup we trudged in a line through the dense, unnerving cane until we found all the items. At that point, in some bizarre version of a childhood car trip, I loaded the armed police in through the sliding door, put the tied up thief in the trunk, and then returned them to their station.

Lesson learned: close the gate, lock the house. Luck rating: 9/10

Our second theft also occurred at home about a year later. Up in the predawn hours, my roommate and I followed the sound of water to a leaking tap outside. Well, not leaking exactly; gushing. Perplexed, we debated how it could have broken overnight when we suddenly realized, this was the spot where our washing machine had once sat. The tap hadn’t broken; its receptacle had been forcibly removed.

Lesson learned: lock the gate. Luck rating: 8/10 (some months afterwards the police showed up at our house with the stolen machine, something of a small miracle)

Petty theft takes some serious confidence, which I learned some months later. I borrowed a friend’s car on a day mine was being serviced. That evening I came out of the branch to find that the side view mirrors had been stolen. Luckily they had only pried the mirror part from the housing. But they’d done it right outside the front door of a bank. With a security guard. In full view of my office. They must’ve really needed the cash.

Lesson learned: keep the security guard by the cars. Luck rating: 5/10 (replacing the whole mirror apparatus would’ve been very expensive)

This is one I’m going to include even though it’s not a theft per se and it’s going to make me look like an idiot, but it’s a good story. We had been grocery shopping and, in a moment of monumental forgetfulness, I left my iPad in the cart we had been using. We hadn’t even left the mall before I realized, but enough time had passed for probably 50 people to cycle through the supermarket. We ran back and began frantically checking every cart and basket we could see, whether or not they were in use. I looked like a crazy person trotting back and forth down the checkout lines, peering anxiously at people’s grocery selections. Emily, in a more practical move, asked the management to view the CCTV footage. It wasn’t long before we saw our poor, oblivious selves  on the screen abandoning our cart, and a woman grabbing it not 10 seconds later. A minute or two after that in the footage we thought we could see the same woman leaving the store in a hurry, without having bought anything. That seemed to be the end of that; hours of searching at Shoprite and useless trips to police stations left us empty handed. We returned home, defeated. Acting on an afterthought, I went to the “find my iPhone” website and, behold, there was the tiny blinking beacon of my lost tablet. I must have left the internet turned on while looking up measurement conversions. In an adrenaline-fueled rush we dashed out to the car and, following the map on the computer, set off on the hunt. It was all the way across town but we were there in no time, and quickly realized the problem: the map wasn’t detailed enough. There were at least 15 houses around the dot, each subdivided into multiple family apartments; how were we ever going to pinpoint who had taken it? I started the only way I could think of, going door to door, trying to determine who looked like they had just found a computer. After a few houses it was clear this wasn’t going to bear fruit, but we were so close! In a last ditch effort I hit the button which sounded an alarm on the iPad. Not five minutes later a woman called, saying she had found my number by going through my email, and that she had the computer. She asked where she could meet us, to which I was able to reply, just come out of your house. In no time I was reunited with it, as improbable as it had seemed a few hours before. 

Lesson learned: don’t be a forgetful idiot. Luck rating: 15/10

The most recent addition to my robbery portfolio, and certainly the hardest to swallow, occurred just last Thursday. I had gone to withdraw my salary which had been deposited by mistake to my account at another bank rather than at FINCA. Because I only have one free withdrawal a month, I took out the whole thing at once. After leaving, on the way to deposit it at my branch, I stopped to get some food. A few minutes later, when I came back to the car, I found the driver’s side door slightly ajar and the envelope with the cash gone. My heart just sank to the ground; right away I knew that that money was long gone. Still, I stomached the police station to bring an officer back to the scene, where he pointed out to me how my lock had been jimmied and told me it’s a common thing to be followed after making a withdrawal at a bank. He told me these guys are professionals; they were probably in and out in a minute and the chances of retrieving the cash were essentially zero. Again I endured the bureaucracy of the police station to file a report, not because I thought it would help, but because I didn’t know what else to do with myself. In the end, it’s money, and if they were going to follow me and take it anyway, at least I didn’t have to get hurt I guess. Still, I’ll be kicking myself for this one for some time to come.

Lesson(s) learned: be careful with cash, split it up or keep it on you. Always look over your shoulder as you leave the bank. Luck rating: 0/10

24 January, 2014

Reflection Time

The beginning of the year is an easy and tempting opportunity for self-reflection. When you’re with friends and family for the holidays, ringing in the New Year, or just trying to remember to write the correct date, certain questions seem to come naturally. Where was I this time last year? At that time, where did I see myself now? And of course the big one: where will I be this time next year?

It’s hard to believe it was a year ago that my family came to visit Zambia. Looking back over that time it’s clear that sharing it with them changed some of my own perceptions of living here. Instead of it being something totally separate and foreign from my life in the US, I began to feel like I could merge the two parts. Now, when sharing stories, my family could recognize names and places from their own experience. More than that, Zambia, down to all the mundane details of living here, was now something meaningful and real for them which could connect us across the long distance.

(Victoria Falls 2012)

After the big, exciting holiday last year and my recent visit to the US in August, I was approaching this holiday season resigned to the idea of spending it away from my family. The prospect wasn't very appealing (Lusaka empties out during the holidays) so I decided to approach my bosses anyway just to see what would happen. Both have plenty of experience living abroad and away from their families, so I guess I shouldn't have been surprised when they were open to the idea. I couldn't have been happier about it.

Having already set the expectation for my absence, my mom and I decided to take advantage of the situation and make it a surprise for the rest of my family. I haven’t had many opportunities in life to pull such an elaborate trick on them so we really went all out with it.  Watching the shock and confusion register on their faces, we were both pretty pleased with the success of our deception.   

Being home for the holidays was even nicer than I’d expected. I was able to catch up with old friends, some I hadn't seen in years, and spend plenty of time with my family. I also had the chance to spend some time with Emily in Boston, which was really a great experience. In the same way as having my family visit Zambia, I felt very lucky to be able to share parts of our pre-Zambia lives with each other. We were even treated to a snowstorm and, let me tell you, after 3 years of no snow you really get nostalgic for it. Thinking last year about what this holiday season would bring I know I couldn't have imagined a better two weeks.

       

 (Gingerbread house construction, serious business)

The remaining question floating out there still can’t be answered neatly. This is the time where I start considering what my options are and where they could take me. As in the past, the process can be overwhelming, but there’s a flip side to that which excites me. While it’s still half a year away, I’m looking forward to where August 2014 and the end of my current contract will lead me.

05 December, 2013

Mandela


You set a standard for forgiveness, foresight, empathy, and the strength of a person. You were what every leader in the world should dream to be. 

22 November, 2013

Big Graduation, Big Migration

When I first arrived in Zambia as a fellow with Kucetekela Foundation, one of my first tasks was organizing the Work Experience program for our Grade 10's.  We split up the driving to the sites amongst the staff and I was assigned to bring Martinho, a mild-mannered 10th grader, to his internship at a medical laboratory. In order to beat traffic I would pick him up early in the morning and we’d arrive well before the lab opened. Sitting together in the parking lot that first day we were initially at a loss for words, but, over a game of chess on my computer we started to bond. That became our morning ritual, the chess games a conduit for us to talk and learn about one another, and from that week forward we stayed close.

Early this year I officially became Martinho’s mentor through KF, which was a very happy moment for me. Now it’s Frisbee rather than chess that connects us. Our car rides together and lunches every few months give me a chance to find out how things are going at school, but it’s also a time for me to learn more about this gifted, motivated, and increasingly well-spoken young man.

Last month I found myself in a position I don’t think I could’ve predicted two years ago: watching Martinho graduate from Grade 12 and the KF scholarship program. Seeing him and the other KF graduate Kate dancing into the ceremony, sitting in their formal wear and gowns, collecting their prizes for first and second in the class (big grins on their faces) was at the same time a happy and surreal experience. Being surrounded that afternoon by the KF students and all the positivity of the day flooded me with good memories and reminded me of things I loved about Zambia which I’d started to forget.

(Kate and Martinho)


It’s that time of the year again; the other weekend we packed ourselves into the Rav’s and went north for the bat migration. As usual it was a great trip, and because the bats had shifted their roosting place closer to the viewing area, we were able to witness it from what felt like a whole new perspective. This year BBC came to Zambia to film the migration for the BBC Africa series. It’s featured in Episode 2 of the series, “Savannah”. I think a quick cameo from us dedicated bat watchers would have added something nice, but it seems they’re not interested in filming humans for this program. This year we also included a stop over at a nearby waterfall. It was really a stunning place; it felt like we’d walked down into some preserved prehistoric oasis. Swimming at its base after hiking in the heat was an excellent way to close out the trip.




Re-reading this post, I realized the content is, in many ways, very similar to the post I had written this time last year (am I becoming that predictable?). If I had just waited until next Thursday I would’ve included a bit about the Thanksgiving dinner that we’re planning to have. I think it’s safe to say that, like every year, it’ll be a welcome and comforting reminder of home. Wishing you all a very happy early Thanksgiving. And a happy early 60th birthday to my Dad; it seems this, my 60th post, was well timed to celebrate

31 October, 2013

October in Zambia

It’s Halloween, and while the weather here is hot rather than brisk and there’s dust on the ground instead of leaves, we still managed a small token of recognition. See if you can guess whose squash is whose (hint: you wouldn't be able to tell it was Emily's first jack-o-lantern)




And how better to celebrate the last day of October than with an awesome end to a truly impressive baseball season. Waking up at 2 am to stream the game live was worth it to watch this bearded bunch of ballplayers put on another great show. Thinking of all of you celebrating in Boston today. 

04 October, 2013

Engagement Photos

Last weekend I did an engagement photo shoot with two friends around Lusaka. They'll have official photos done later, but this shoot was more for them to relive and remember their 5 years together here before moving away a few days later. We went all over town searching for those quintessential Lusaka icons and places. With the light and the city cooperating we came away with some fun photos. Here are few of my favorites.






26 September, 2013

Nairobi Attack

What began in Nairobi last Saturday and only finished two days ago has deeply affected communities in this part of the world. The terrifying and upsetting features of this violence have left everyone with a profound vulnerability alongside the grief. I feel awful for all of those people who had to experience this trauma, and those who are surviving their friends and loved ones. I just wanted to share a blog post which was shared with me that speaks truer than many media accounts about the nature of the suffering, as well as the "common humanity and decency" generated by this event.



The pain touched people of all religions.